One of my co-workers uses a rawhide / steel Garland mallet, which a good bit heavier and can pack some serious heat. I normally use a 30 oz urethane Wood is Good round mallet. I recommend having a couple different weights around. 1 1/2" and 2" are the most used sizes, though others can certainly be useful.Ī good quality mallet or two cannot be overstated for timber framing. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a couple of Barr framing chisels if I were starting again it will save you countless hours of flattening and initial sharpening. This is where the value of the $150+ Barr chisels come into play. You can use a framing chisel in this state with a belly along the back in many ways just fine, but you just have to be aware in a long, paring situation you can't necessarily rely on the back as a reference the same way you might with a chisel that has a dead-flat back. This has happened to me on a couple of occasions and some of my chisels weren't flat to begin with, but I bought them anyway. This will lead to either a major lapping/flattening session just to get it prepped to sharpen and hone, which could potentially create a "belly" along the back of the chisel. *The issue that you're likely to have with old chisels is the back not being flat enough upon purchase. I have paid ranging from $10-75 for them on the used market (some from eBay, some from antique markets, etc.) I have framing chisels ranging from 1" - 2" in various widths. Very high quality steel and manufacturing.Īll of my framing chisels are from old American tool makers (Witherby, Pexto, Union Tool, etc) and they are great, with some caveats* The Witherby chisels are my favorites to use and sharpen. I don't own Barr framing chisels but have used them many times (co-workers own them), and they are fantastic. I'm a timber framer by trade, so I suppose I'll speak up a bit. Last edited by Mike Holbrook 01-14-2018 at 12:55 PM. sort of redefines Neanderthal & reliance on hand tools. They use wood & plaster to make the walls within the frame, build windows & doors, even door latches are made from wood. I am wondering if anyone here has any experience to relate with regard to these chisels and their use? I may make a trip to Highland Woodworking tomorrow to check them out.īelow is a series of videos, in which, a guy & his wife: take down trees, hew timbers from the logs, build a two story workshop, using classic timber framing joinery. Barr Tools seems to make the prefered tools for this work. Most of the joinery for this work seems to be done with a 1 1/2” Timber Framing chisel, not a firmer chisel, not a slick, but a real Timber Framing chisel. I got interested in Timber Framing and have been watching guys do timber framing on YouTube. The 2” bevel edge Narex chisel I have been using seems over matched. Should be doing it with an adze & or carving axe but, mine are at our cabin at the moment. I have been working on removing a 1- 1 1/2” x 16” piece of red oak from a red oak log.
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